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Caño Manamo, Orinoco-Delta, Venezuela An unusual Trip written by Lisa und Helmut Bedenig, SY. Alumine
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Between Trinidad and Venezuela lies, like a big lake, the Golf of Paria and on the opposite side of the Southeast Cape is the mouth of the most northern rivers of the huge Orinoco-Delta. There are no exact charts existing. It would not make sense because the sand and mud from the big rivers are moving all the time. But in Trinidad we could get information from Mr. Jack Dausend of the sailing magazine "The Boca" (hand-painted charts and way-points.) (Local Magazin in Chaguaramas, publisher from "Boater'Directory" for Trinidad) We fitted "Alumine" with a big mosquito net over the whole cockpit and then checked out of Trinidad and sailed across the quiet Golf of Paria to the next port of entry, Güiria. This is a typical fishing harbour and very uncomfortable for a yacht. We found an English speaking Agent who could do the clearance for us, but the officials didn't want to give us the permission to sail in the Macareo. "If you want to go up this river you need an armed guide, but you can go up the Manamo." The officials made the decision for us between Macareo and the Manamo. First of all we sailed along the lonely south coast of the peninsula of Paria, always on the 5 m line, along the flat, green, alluvial land, small beaches and the big mountains in the background. One night we anchored in front of a small village close to Point Piedras and another night in the wide mouth of Rio San Juan in front of a beach with Scarlet Ibis. We then headed south through the dead calm Golf and straight to the oil platforms which appeared to be gliding like a mirage in the flittering hot air over the surface of the sea. The unique brown colour of the water didn't give us any chance to see if there was a sandbar build up in front of us, but the depth-sounder showed constantly 5m and momentarily we discovered the red and green buoys marking the entrance to the Rio Pedernales. It was child's play. A special feature of the rivers of any delta is that the currents of its branches change direction every six hours. For six hours the tide pushes the water upstream, six hours it flows downstream. This water flow is more noticeable in the Manamo, because of the dam. One can easily detect current flow, by observing the floating islands of water hyacinths. In the beginning the wide river was winding between dense green walls of mangroves interrupted by sandy patches on which we discovered plenty of heron and scarlet ibis. Then it became deeper and deeper, the colour darkened to look like Coca-Cola and the bow wave shone a bright golden colour like old Cognac. Occasionally Wareo Indian huts stood on the borders of the river banks. Here sailing vessels are still a sensation. This year we were the first, the only and probably the last ones to visit. It is rare for more than one or two cruising vessels to arrive in one year. Local children especially enjoyed the excitement. From the moment they discovered us, they jumped in their bongos and paddled as quickly as they could to have a closer view of the unusual vessel. Even the smallest child was very dexterous, quick, and skilled in manoeuvring the canoes. It was no problem for them to keep up with us when we were making 3-4 kts. The children learn paddling before they are able to run. As we came to a small village, they launched their bongos in the water and proudly displayed their baskets, necklaces and animals carved from balsa wood. We signaled them that we would be returning and this was easily understood because the Manamo reaches a dead end where the dam is built. In this region the Wareos still live in palafitos, houses built on stilts without walls, as they have for about 300 years. They swing in their hammocks in the shade of the immense roofs made of palm-fronds that nearly reach the floor, where a gentle breeze is enjoyed and they have a colourful view over the river where they can watch green islands lazily drift by. Everything that is growing or swimming will be used in some form of manufacturing. The fronds from the palm trees are used for baskets, the grain for ropes and hammocks, the seeds for necklaces, and the soft wood for carvings. Plant oil is melted for wax candles and medicines are derived from all parts of special plants, some of which modern science has not yet explored. In a small side branch of the river lies the Orinoco Delta Lodge where we anchored for a week. We had a nice lunch every day at the restaurant and sat in a hammock under the roof of the Lodge where we watched the green island with the water hyacinths slowly float by. We recommend this for people who are close to a nervous break down. Very therapeutic. A boat from the Lodge brought us to Tukupita, the capital of the district. It is not possible for a yacht to continue further on because of low hanging high-voltage power lines. On our way upstream we could see the evolving modernization which will unfortunately be heading to the Wareos. The old-fashioned, breezy and shady palafitos have given way to ugly boxes built from wood or stone with rusty, corrugated, sheet metal roofs. The elegant bongos are being replaced by clumsy plastic vessels with enormous outboards. Tukupita is the ugliest town we had ever seen. The shops are full of junk from the Far east, the rubbish containers stink and the cars are old and rusty. The people wear jeans and T-shirts, the girls wear glass and plastic jewels in unbelievable neon colours, and they became more and more fat because of the unusual food. On the way downstream from the Lodge to the mouth of the Manamo we took plenty of time and anchored where ever we particularly liked it. Two boys in a bongo called the pink freshwater dolphins for us. They splashed their paddles on the water surface and cooed like pigeons. After a short time the dolphins surfaced and splashed all around the boat. They jumped high out of the water and seemed to have just as much fun as we and the children. We handed out the small presents we brought for the children which included colourful toothbrushes, hair ties, pencils, fishing equipment, and many other small items. Jack had told us: "Please no sweets, nothing to eat! Our processed food does not agree with the touchy stomachs of these nature children and the sugar causes tooth decay." We got a useful list from "The Boca" of items to bring. Slowly we slid through small side branches, admiring the fantastic reflections in the dark river, the huge butterflies and dragonflies, the white, grey, and blue herons, and the scarlet ibis. In the mouth between Rio Pedernales and the Caño Manamo, the owner of the Orinoco Delta Lodge has just built a fishing camp. The landing stage is finished, seven bungalows and the restaurant should be ready for the first tourists in September or October. Fanatical fisherman will enjoy the abundance of fish in the salty sea, in the brackish water, and in the fresh water of the rivers. For sailors coming from the south, this is an absolutely safe place in all ways and may be a welcome stop on their way north. Not to mention, it may well be a good hurricane hole option in the event of potential storm danger, although we hope that it never happens. In front of the Camp is a wide area with 5 m depth which has perfect ground anchor holding consisting of soft sand and mud. At the entrance to Rio Pedernales just follow the red and green buoys marking the shipping lane, keeping a minimum of 5m depth. This is good enough for larger vessels with a bigger draft. In the future the Camp will be able to assist with clearance. This will make it more comfortable and much easier and there is always someone who speaks English. It is possible to leave the yacht anchored in care of the Camp and tour the Gran Savanna or Canaima. The Camp will organise it for you. Sorry there is no Email-address for the fishing camp as yet, but there is one for the Lodge. Those people who are interested in visiting the lodge without a yacht can do so by airplane, bus and powerboat. www.think-venezuela.net www.orinocodelta.com Tel:++58-414-9890452 Orinocodelta@cantv.net Information: Clearance No chance to avoid the check in and check out. We were controlled immediately by the River Patrol. These young men were nice, friendly, and polite as it was everywhere in Venezuela. There is always one who can speak some English. They take a beer or softdrink if you offer it, but they will not bother you. Checking in and out in Güiria was stressful and expensive (80 US$ for our 38 ft yacht, for two persons, which covers the official fees and the English speaking Agent "Pier 1". It takes a whole day for each clearance) "Pier 1" Office Acosta Asociados on Calle Bolivar No.33 This is the office for the tickets for the ferry to Trinidad. It is certainly easier to make the clearance in the Lodge or the Camp (Port of Entry Tukupita) with the help from Hani, the owner of the Lodge and Camp. (probably 60US$)
There is another Lodge in a side-branch between the fishing camp and the Orinoco Delta Lodge: Lodge Camp Boca el Tigre: 09°34,2 N 062°26,4 W Specialities of a trip in this river: The sand in the mouth is moving continuously, the charts are not reliable, but the ground is soft and rises slowly. It is not dangerous, if you have a good operating depth sounder or perhaps a leadline. When you reach the landfall buoy you are in the safe shipping lane. In the beginning we had 5 m, later on up to 25 m. Be careful in the inner curves, especially at the junction to the Orinoco Delta Lodge. Stay close to the outer side. Although "Alumine" is a French construction with a centreboard and we can flatten her to 55 cm draft, we think a buddy boat would be a good idea in this lonely place. But the draft was not the major problem, more the drifting water-hyacinths and grass islands, which wrapped around the chain, the rudder, and unfortunately around the propeller. While cruising it's no problem to avoid the bigger ones and at anchor it's also possible to steer clear of them, but at night we preferred to sleep instead of holding water-hyacinth-watches. Once we had the roots around the propeller and we had to free it with a sharp knife. It is as easy to cut them as vegetables, but in the dark brown water we could not see an inch wide and had to grope to see what had happened. In the current it was hopeless, but we got the propeller free in a few minutes when we waited for the change between the tides. Luckily it is possible to anchor immediately whenever it is necessary. We kept the anchor clear the whole time and the remote-control at hand. We were lucky and not on the menu of the piranhas. Insect-plague: Good mosquito nets, enough spray, repellent, and histergan cream should be on board. The Mosquitoes fly fortunately only at dusk. A shirt with long sleeves, long trousers and thick socks are necessary for a visit to the "Delta-flies" and the horrible no-see-ums, we only had in the brackish water at the mouth because there was no breeze. Up the river it was nothing like this. Portable Water: We didn't have any rain for two weeks. Black clouds were passing, there was lightning and thunder, but never enough rain to collect. This seems to be very unusual for rainy saison in the Delta. The Wareos scoop the water directly from the river and drink it. We didn't drink the river water, but we did use it for washing and cleaning. If you filter it and put some drops of bleach in it, it becomes clear. Change, Food and provisioning: You can change your US Dollars ( 100$ for 220,000 bol in August, 2005) We got a complete menu in the lodge for 8-10 US$; thick vegetable soup, meat or fish with salad or vegetables, and a side dish, as much delicious round flat bread as you want, and fresh fruits for dessert. Soft-drinks 2000 bol Beer 2500 bol Wine, juice, rum and punch is also available. Drum with 200 l gasoil brought from Tukupita for 14.000 bol Internet was free. Souvenirs, handcraft from the Wareos: Necklaces, baskets and so on were offered for 3.000, 5.000, or 10.000 bol. Nothing in-between because most Wareos cannot count and they want to have a note in a special colour. They do not have any change. If you want to buy these really nice and fashionable items make sure that you have enough small money. This is not easy as we couldn't get any in Güiria or in the Lodge. The extremely wide and comfortable hammocks costs from 120.000 bol up. "The Boca" (Office located at Crews Inn Chaguaramas, Trinidad) gave us a list of little things the children might like. It is nice to see the big eyes and the smiling faces, but we are always very careful with presents. We prefer to give it for any quid pro quo, for the calling of the dolphins for example, not because we are miserly, but because we do not want to teach the children begging, and that's just how it begins everywhere. What they loved most of all were the old magazines. It doesn't matter which language, they just love to see the pictures. We had the Boca Booster, old National Geographics, catalogues from a warehouse, "In and out of Trinidad and Tobago", only the colourful pictures are important. "The Boca" has also the waypoints for the Macareo River. It is possible to make the trip in the Manamo at any time, we had been there in rainy season. Good luck and enjoy it Helmut and Lisa from "Alumine" |
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